Sunday was the annual party for Chez Panisse and Green String staff. It was held in and around a large barn on Green String. Hay bales had been set outside for use as benches. A brick oven had been built and an iron door made from Aurelio’s forge expressly for the purpose of the party. Pizzas were made in the oven and two sheep roasted on large metal skewers over an open fire. There were beans, tortillas, and salads, and for dessert, homemade chocolate chip ice cream with biscotti and tarts from the oven.
There was much wine and all was drunk. Two large tour buses arrived with the Chez Panisse staff. There were many people with kids and dogs, baseballs and soccer balls, instruments and voices. I saw a few people I knew from Berkeley. And, of course, Alice Waters was in attendance. I regret not getting a chance to meet her, although she did wink at me. By that time, I was too wasted and exhausted to want to have an intelligent conversation with anyone. There was so much stimulation, I was drained, drained.
I met one of the head chefs from Chez, who suggested us interns come to the restaurant and see “the other side.” See the food prepared and eaten! When we fill their orders on Mondays and Thursdays, I sometimes think what will come of that bean or berry, and sometimes what comes of it is that it goes in my belly.
Monday was the usual morning order filling harvest for the restaurant, followed by a long lunch at Ross’ house, and fig picking. You must pick figs when they are at their full ripeness. Any green is too much. If they are not yet ripe, a milky substance leaks from their stem, which is irritating to the skin. Also, their stem nubbin must come off the tree intact to keep the fig preserved. It was Ross, his friend, M, and I picking. The picking turned into a fig-fight, with us all sneaking and hiding behind and up trees, throwing. Tired from our battle, we all sat down on the hillside, looking down over the grapevines far below. Ross’ friend, Colin, said, “This is so fun. It’s like being a kid again.”
I contemplated this the next day during our lesson with Bob. We learned how to use a seeder, which is a contraption with two wheels, a seed holder, and handles. You push it up and down the rows, and it sows the seeds into the ground at the desired depth and frequency. Bob discussed the economics of choosing the frequency: how much the seed costs, its germination rate, how old it is. We also hand-sowed seeds that Bob broadcast on another plot. Again, economics: Bob broadcast them because it was important that it was done right with this expensive seed and important plot—a crop of kale that is expected to produce five thousand dollars.
Being a farmer would not be like being a kid again. Being an intern, however, is.
Tuesday morning brought a lesson with Bob’s father (also named Bob). Bob Sr. is the local poultry expert. He is in his eighties, but is very much active. He is good to talk to, and has a great wealth of knowledge. He tells us that we are the ones who are able to make a difference; that he doesn’t have the time any more— it’s us.
Here’s the lesson:
The wild jungle fowl of Malaysia were domesticated into what we now know as chickens. The domesticated fowl were moved west to India, the Middle East, and Egypt. The ancient Egyptians were very talented domesticators, hatching many chicks in sand incubators and developing what is now known as one of the Mediterranean breeds, which have white eggs.
From Malaysia, the chicken also moved east to China, where it was developed for meat rather than eggs. The eggs of these Asian breeds are brown.
The chicken also moved north into Germany, France, and England. These breeds, such as the Dorking and Sussex, are small and produce many eggs.
In the U.S., “dual-purpose” breeds were developed– good for eggs as well as meat– and has now formed into a worldwide industry. These, of course, are big. Breeds include the Light Bromma, the Rhode Island Red, the Dominic, and the Jersey Giant. These breeds are also high in fat content. For example, Foster Farms chickens are 20% body fat. Bob Sr. said that he has developed chickens of only 6% body fat, and if their testes are removed, they can attain a weight of up to 16 pounds, the size of a small turkey.
This is also about efficiency: how well a chicken can convert feed into carcass weight. At Foster Farms, they don’t want the chickens to be active, nor get any sunlight. If they do not move and do not get any sunlight, their flesh will be very tender. I thought about those chicken commercials Foster Farms used to (still does?) do, where the chicken puppets are trying to escape. Jesus.
It takes 21 days, almost exactly, to incubate eggs of any breed. For the Mediterranean breeds, a higher temperature of incubation is needed (like the Leghorns), but for the most part, you need 99.5 degrees of circulated heat or 101 degrees of static heat for an egg to hatch. Also, a high amount of humidity is needed. You can make a home incubator, with a light bulb to produce heat, and a dish of water to evaporate into humidity. You must turn the eggs a couple times a day, or the fetus will stick to the side of the egg and cause it to abort. Bob Sr. says he puts them on a flat cookie sheet in the incubator, and runs his hands over them to turn them. If you buy an incubator, always keep the eggs pointed-side down. The gives the fetus room to grow in.
To find a fertile egg, you do a method called “candling.” You can buy a candler, or make one by poking a hole in the top of a tin can, placing a light bulb in through the bottom, and placing an egg on top of the hole, so the light shines just through the egg. If you see the little white sperm, then you know it’s fertile (you’ve all seen that funny white stringy thing in your eggs before, right? That’s the sperm! What would the anti-abortionists say?).
The Mediterranean breeds have become very bad at incubating their own eggs, because they have been hatched for them for so long, but the Asian breeds can hatch their own.
Don’t have many different breeds or different aged chicks together– they’ll fight.
Soybean meal is good protein for them.
Leave their poop on the ground in the winter and just cover with straw. When it decomposes, it provides warmth for the chickens.
You can free-range chickens, but you have to put them in at night to protect them from predators. To catch a chicken, pretend you’re walking one way, then walk the other way– you must trick them. Whatever you do, don’t chase them. You’ll never win.
They really like lightly cooked veggies, and they also like their own egg shells smashed up– it’s a good source of calcium. Things like cantaloupe must be cut open so they can eat the soft flesh. They are great garbage disposers!
They like grain spread on the ground. It’s good for scratching and finding. Give them a little at night, because it digests slowly. Give them standard feed in the morning. Veggies all day. Their feed (mash) must be 16-18% protein. If they’re not getting enough protein, they’ll want to eat each other.
Hen to rooster ratio should be 10:1 max for Mediterranean breeds, and 15:1 max for Asian breeds. If it’s more, the hens will peck at each other. They can be very mean.
Melissa and I want to hatch some chicks. Bob Sr. thinks everyone should keep at least a couple of hens. They’re so easy to take care of, they provide the satisfaction and economy of growing your own food, and they produce fresh (and maybe organic and free-range) eggs right in your backyard. What’s not to like?